How to Cook a Perfect Whole Bird

Thanksgiving is a little over a week away. This week I'll share some of my favorite recipes. Cooking a whole bird is a beautiful thing. The cook has the ability to infuse the meat with distinct flavors and a whole bird can feed a family for many meals. Use these techniques for a perfect Thanksgiving turkey, family style chicken dinner, or delicate individual game hens.

Brine - A sugar/salt brine infuses the bird with flavorful juices. (2-18 hours)

Make one by boiling one half gallon (8 cups) water and adding one cup kosher salt and one half cup sugar, boiled to dissolve and then cool it with one half gallon (8 cups) ice. You can add aromatics such as bay leaf, peppercorns, whole allspice, or orange peels once the brine is made.

Soak the bird in brine for a time appropriate to the thickness of the breast. For a fresh (or thawed frozen) bird, leave the bird in brine for the appropriate length of time: game hen - 2 hours, fryer chicken - 6 hours, roaster chicken - 8 hours, turkey - 12+ hours. Brine is optional but greatly enhances the flavor and juicy-ness of the bird.

Stuff - Add flavor to a bird by stuffing the cavity and skin with aromatics. Stuffing with bread filling is not recommended by the USDA and extends cooking time, which can dry the meat. (10 minutes)

Fill but do not over-stuff the cavity with quartered onions, fresh herbs, or citrus. Slide a finger between the breast and skin and place butter and/or herbs under the skin for a more delicious and juicy bird. Stuffing is totally optional.

Truss - Tie up the bird’s legs to cook evenly and not dry out. (5 minutes)

Using a 2 foot length of butcher’s twine or plain cotton string, tie the feet together. Push the tail fat under the legs inside the cavity. Then, drive a bamboo skewer between the two wings and through the bird so that they are held closely to the rest of the bird.

placing turkey in oven

Roast Hot and Fast - Low and slow methods work well for fat-marbled meats, which turkey, chicken and the like are not. Instead, roast at a high temperature to brown the skin, reduce temperature and do not over-cook. NB: Fatty water fowl should be steamed before roasting. (1-3 hours)

Thaw your bird to room temperature. Place it atop a few chopped vegetables (carrots, celery, onion) or directly in a roasting pan, breast side up. Optionally, rub with olive oil or butter. Sprinkle skin with salt and pepper.

Put the pan in a pre-heated 400 degree oven for 15-25 minutes until skin is browned. Drop the temperature to 350 degrees and continue cooking until the meat reaches 165 degrees F at the thickest part of the breast. Be sure you are not hitting bone when you measure temperature. Do not rely on pop-up gauges.

Rest - Allowing meat to rest is the most overlooked part of cooking. This step is absolutely necessary for the protein to cool and seize up the juices. (5-20 minutes)

A whole turkey should rest for at least 20 minutes, a chicken 10, and a game hen 5. Rest out of the oven on a cutting board.

tom carving tom turkey

Carve - Use a very sharp knife and bold strokes to carve a bird. (10-15 minutes)

First, break shoulder to wing joint. Carve through the wing at the shoulder joint to remove the wing. Split into wing and drum if you wish. Next, cut the breast pieces off, leaving skin in tact. Set aside and slice later. Then, remove the leg and thighs from the hip by breaking and cutting through the joint. If desired cut between leg and thigh at the knee joint.

Savor - The drippings and carcass of a bird can yield several more dishes. (20 minutes - days)

For gravy, skim fat from pan drippings. Heat drippings over medium heat. Add a slurry of water and flour slowly. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until sauce thickens.

Pick bits of meat off the carcass for making into salad, soup, or sandwiches.

To make stock, cover the carcass with water in a wide roasting pan with an onion, halved, celery chunks, and carrots. Cook at 200 degrees F in the oven for 8 hours. Strain the resulting stock, skim fat from top, and use in soup, risotto, or sauce. Stock can be frozen for up to one year.

This tutorial was part of the instruction at a recent cooking class. The participants there had plenty of questions. Do you?

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Local Thanksgiving Turkeys & CSAs 2011

thanksgiving ohio localAre you planning turkey day already? You can bet I am! I know friends are too because the questions about 'where can I order a turkey?' are pouring in. Here are the best local options I am aware of:

Turkey

Bowman and Landes - I grew up visiting my grandmother who worked at Bowman and Landes farm in Springfield, OH. The turkeys have ample room to roam and the meat is free from hormones and antibiotics. There's even a family legend that my parents fell in love the summer they slaughtered and plucked turkeys at B&L. Locally-owned grocers Hills Market, North Market Poultry and Game, Huffman's and Weilands offer these toms for pre-order around $3 a pound.

Speckled Hen Farm - Turkeys from Speckled Hen are fed locally grown grains and allowed to free range. Order via the web for $2.79/pound and pick up in Worthington.

Tea Hills Pastured Organic Turkeys - Hills Market carries these top of the line heritage breed birds at $5.19/pound or you can order directly from the farm.

OSU Poultry Science Club - Ohio State University sells free range, antibiotic free turkeys as a fundraiser. Order your bird online for $2.59/pound and pick up on the Columbus campus.

CSAs

Wayward Seed - Need something more than a bird on the table? Wayward Seed organic farm offers a box of vegetables, herbs, and fruit to feed a crowd. With a turkey, the cost is $160; with a winter squash, the cost is $130. Read the details and ordering info on their blog.

OSU Student Farm - Support Ohio State University students in their sustainable farm efforts by purchasing a $35 share of sweet potatoes, herbs, squash, garlic and more. Quantities are limited.

Clintonville and Worthington Farmer's Markets will host pre-Thanksgiving markets on November 19. Pick up mushrooms from Swainway, root vegetables, greens, herbs, apples eggs, and more to fill your menu with local treats.

Did I miss your local favorites? Let me know in the comments!

PS. Alex's mom Deb made the apple pie with the turkey. Isn't it cute? She'll be sharing fiber artistry at next weekend's Clintonville Arts Guild Holiday Show & Sale at Whetstone Recreation Center.

PPS. I am closing the Hounds in the Kitchen annual reader's survey on Sunday. I would really appreciate you sharing your opinion before then if you have a few minutes.

Grandpa's Grilled Chicken {Recipe}

grandpas grilled chicken recipeI am fortunate to come from a family of home cooks. Women are not the only ones in the kitchen - my father, uncle, and grandfather don aprons and feed the family as well.

This recipe is for my mother's father's grilled chicken. The marinade is nothing particularly special, but the method of re-basting it creates a succulent crispy glazed skin.

In honor of Grandpa, I never change the spices. Without nostalgia holding you back, I encourage you to add in a little cayenne, chili powder, or dry mustard.

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Grandpa's Chicken Serves: 4-8 depending on how much chicken is used Active cooking time: 10 minutes to prepare, 45-75 minutes grilling

½ cup oil ½ cup vinegar ¼ cup water 2 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon minced onion 5 pounds bone-in chicken, your favorite cut or a whole chicken cut in halves.

1. Whisk all ingredients together. 2. Pour over chicken pieces and allow to marinate for 30 minutes - 6 hours. (If marinating longer than an hour, place the chicken in the fridge.) 3. Heat a grill to moderate heat. Place the chicken on the grate. 4. Use a pastry brush to brush on leftover marinade. 5. Continue grilling, turning the pieces as necessary for even browning. Reapply marinade every 15 minutes. 6. Remove chickens from heat when internal temperature of thickest cut reaches 165 degrees F. 7. Allow to rest five minutes before serving.

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Waste Not, Want Not Squirrel Rillettes {Charcutepalooza}

squirrel rillette charcuterie platterWhen you think of squirrel, what comes to mind? Do you picture a cute fluffy tailed animal, some backyard wildlife? Or  is your vision something more sinister? Are your squirrels tomato thieves, bird feeder destroyers, and dog taunters?

Is anyone thinking savory and delectable? I am.

About Squirrel Meat

While squirrels are ubiquitous in most American neighborhoods, they are almost never on the dinner table. Why? It has nothing to do with the outstanding dark meat, smooth textured, rich taste.

Squirrels are tiny animals when skinned, about 3/4 of a pound including bones. Though 'tree rats' are more numerous than HRC stickers in my liberal neighborhood, harvesting and processing enough to feed a crowd would be arduous.

Speaking of the bones, they are numerous. Wine braised squirrel is every bit as tasty as duck (I swear) but eating around the needle thin skeleton is a royal pain.

Then there's the concern about safety. Could something that runs around alleys, tree lines, and lawns be good to eat? I myself wouldn't touch the first few squirrel Alex made.

After a whole summer witnessing the beasts steal my garden produce and hang off bird feeders, it hit me: squirrels eat very well. They are not rats eating trash at all - they scavenge abundant wild nuts, seeds, and veggies. Most of what they eat is as untouched from chemicals as the pasture ranged meats I pay so much for at local markets.

Stretching

The October Charcutepalooza challenge was to make an appetizer of rillette, confit, gallentine or roulade, to stretch a single cut of meat into a dish that would feed many. I extended the stretching theme to include my food budget. What delicious small bite could I create without purchasing ingredients?

I immediately thought of squirrel because 1) we had one in the freezer and 2) making it into confit and then rillette would be the perfect way to enjoy the meat without the annoyance of the bones.

squirrelseasoned squirrelgoose lard for rillettesquirrel rillette cooking

Alex flavored a backyard harvested squirrel overnight with garden herbs and garlic. Next, I put the squirrel in goose lard from last year's Xmas Eve roast with a few end bits of pork belly leftover from making bacon for a long warm bath. Alex picked the meat, pulsed it quickly in a food processor, and packed it into containers. He capped the rillette with excess goose fat.

To serve the rillette,  I continued with the waste not, want not theme. I made homemade crackers with the amount of sourdough starter I would have discarded when feeding the fermented goodstuff this morning. Home grown, home canned cornichons and homemade cranberry sauce completed the platter.

squirrel rillette on cracker with cranberry

Would you try a bite?

Charcuterie Class {Birthday Giveaway}

charcuterie class giveawayEver wondered how to make bacon? Why nitrites/nitrates are sometimes used? Do you enjoy making meat jokes? I will cover all this and more in my Charcuterie Class on October 18 at Wild Goose Creative, the last of my Preserving Series. Participants get to go home with tasting samples in their belly and a few fresh sausages to boot.

One lucky reader can win a place at the meaty table! Just leave a comment below with your favorite cured meat product.

Giveaway Details

The winner will receive free entry to the October 18 Preserving Class at Wild Goose Creative in Columbus, Ohio. Class time is 6:30-8:30 pm, value $35. Transportation to and from class is the responsibility of the winner.

Contest entries close at 12:01 AM EST on Friday, October 14, 2011. One winner will be selected with random.org. The winner will have 24 hours to respond to email notification to claim their entry. Only one comment per person please.

Disclosure: I am personally sponsoring this giveaway.

Bacon Wrapped Almond Stuffed Dates {Recipes}

bacon wrapped date appetizerLast week I was looking for a first course for a corporate cooking class that was easy to prepare and certain to please. I decided to test making bacon wrapped dates. Am I ever glad I did. The bites are salty and crisp on the outside, soft and sweet in the middle and contain a dense, satisfying almond in the very center. They are best served very warm.

These babies are so simple that I made enough to feed my class of twenty (forty dates worth) in fifteen minutes. After a few minutes on the grill, they disappeared from the serving plate as quickly and with as much gusto as Devie the big hound pursues squirrels in the backyard.

When you want an appetizer to wow the crowd that takes just minutes, try these dates.

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Bacon-Wrapped Almond-Stuffed Dates

dried, pitted whole dates homemade or high quality bacon, one thin 6 inch piece per date raw or blanched almonds, 1 per date

1. Preheat oven or grill to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Insert one almond into each date. Wrap bacon around the date and secure with a toothpick. 3. Place on a cookie sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes or until bacon is browned and crisp. 4. Serve warm over arugula salad for a plated appetizer or on a hot platter for a party.

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PS. Did you see the first of my birthday giveaways? Stay tuned tonight for another one and enter the Kroger Giftcard Giveaway today.

Pork: Belly, Cake, Camp and a Giveaway!

Today, I bring you news from the world of delicious pigs:

pork belly ready for braisingfinished pork belly

Thanks to support from the Pork Board's Be Inspired campaign, we have been playing with pork. On Friday night, braised pork belly was the center of our meal. We served it over local root vegetables with mashed potatoes and homegrown green beans. This is a truly decadent preparation!

sausage cake Saturday's It Couldn't Be dinner included pork sausage as the fat component in a spice cake. I realized when serving it the next day to my family that perhaps the inspiration for making a cake from raw meat was to avoid dairy; the crazy creation was lactose free!

baconcamplogoAre you a fellow pork lover? On August 27, join me at Bacon Camp 2011. I'll be there as one of the judges for the bacon cooking contest. For $10 you can purchase one of the few remaining tickets to taste bacon creations, view bacon art, and enjoy bacon-related discussions.

pork board giveaway

And finally, the giveaway! The Pork Board wants you to also Be Inspired by pork. One of you will win the fun stuff pictured above in the "Be Inspired with Pork" kit, including:

  • $25 gift card to a local retailer to purchase pork
  • 11” Square Grill Pan
  • 16-Jar Revolving Spice Rack
  • Pork Be Inspired Cutting Board
  • Digital Thermometer
  • Copy of "How to Cook Like a Top Chef"

All you need to do to enter is leave a comment about a pork dish you want to make at home by Monday August 8, 2011 at 8 pm. I will use random.org to pick a winner. Good luck!

Disclosure: I received a Pork Board Be Inspired kit in exchange for hosting this giveaway. All opinions are my own.

Sausage Cake {Recipe}

sausage cakeThere are rare times when I post a recipe after making it just once. And never have I posted something that I don't plan to make again. But on the off chance that you have a spare pound of sausage laying around and want to make dessert, behold the Sausage Cake.

Making this cake feels all wrong. The raw meat turns the batter pink and you definitely can't lick the bowl.

The resulting cake is surprisingly tasty to the medieval palate. If you use a mildly flavored sausage, the pork lends very little flavor. Nuts and fruit stud the cake. The texture is rich and dense like any spice cake.

As we shared the cake around, we realized two things. First, my family challenged our palate with a similarly meat-enriched sweet thing when preparing for our Canada trip. Dad was convinced we should take Pemmican, a Native American snack cake of dried fruit and meat. We couldn't stomach it and ditched the idea. Secondly, this cake is dairy free. Perhaps the recipe came from a situation where dairy was scarce?

A hard sauce of apple brandy would improve the plating and presentation. Tasters agreed that it might be good for making into breakfast french toast or bread pudding where the slight hints of meat are more welcome to the palate.

I would truly love to hear what others think of this if they make it. Please come back and leave comments!

PS. Come back tonight for a pork giveaway!

 

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Sausage Cake
from the Nordic Ware 'Unusual Old World and American Recipes' booklet circa 1970s

1 pound ground pork sausage
1 1/2 cups firmly packed brown sugar
1 1/2 cups white sugar
2 eggs, beaten
3 cups all purpose flour
1 cup dried fruit
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cloves
1 cup cold coffee
1 cup chopped nuts

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease and flour a bundt pan.
2. Beat pork sausage with sugars in a stand mixer until well blended, approximately 3 minutes. Add eggs and continue beating.
3. In a separate bowl, mix flour, spices, baking powder, and baking soda.
4. Meanwhile, pour 1 cup of boiling water over dried fruit. Soak for five minutes and pour off water.
5. With the mixer on low, alternate cupfuls of flour with thirds of the cold coffee. Mix thoroughly after each addition.
6. When the batter is combined, gently stir in nuts and dried fruit.
7. Pour into prepared pan and bake for 60-90 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out dry. Cool 15 minutes in pan before inverting to release the cake.
8. Store leftovers in the refrigerator.

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Added to Hearth and Soul.